Travels With Roland (Tug Restless) Part 4
The arrival at Mobile the morning of Nov.9th, brings a feeling of closer to the first section of the voyage. The city is very much a working port, and it is easy to find yourself Gunkholeing about the harbor. Mobile Bay is huge, and like the rest of the southern coast of the USA, you soon come to realize that although there is a lot of surface water to be observed, little exists beneath it.
Turning off the main channel between markers #63 & 65, I enter the approach to Dog River. Being alone for this section of the trip, I am spread a bit thin, and am aft preparing lines and fenders for my intended docking, while the boat is on autopilot thru a rather narrow channel marked by day markers. Be it from a magnet anomaly, sloppy autopilot, or my lack of attention, Restless takes a slight departure from the channel line while my attention is diverted elsewhere. The initial indication, of something being amiss, comes in the form of noting a slight vibration in the deck beneath my feet, followed by the muck churned up wake astern, and a reduction in speed. Running forward into the wheelhouse, I cob the power, and dig myself a channel while steering back into the waterway. Being of a silt bottom, the only damage done is to my ego.
The Intracoastal Waterway, between Mobile and Apalachicola, in many respects is a view of Old Florida. The canal, which is little more than a ditch for the majority of the distance, has a Swannee River mood about it. This relaxed atmosphere and lack marine traffic however, can be readily shattered should you have the misfortune of meeting a tug and barge traveling in the opposite direction.
Departure from Ft. Walton Florida the morning of Nov. 21st occurs with the weather, sunny and cool with a stiff wind from the north. The crossing of Choctawhatchee Bay is sloppy with an abeam sea, and entering the protection of the canal at Point Washington is a welcome relief. A feeling of chugging along thru the Dark Continent aboard the African Queen develops from the uninhabited and undeveloped shores. This euphoria suddenly comes to an abrupt halt, with rounding a bend, and finding myself in the path of several hundred feet of tug and barge headed in the opposite direction. There can be no relief expected from the skipper of the tug in this situation, as he very much has his hands full enough without the addition of a passing situation. Any attempt to pass close abeam by skirting the edge of the canal as much as possible, is a certain invitation for running aground, and should that occur, the tug’s wash would leave me further high and dry on a muck bank. While the thought runs thru my head initially, of doing a hard one eighty to buy time, and seek a possible wider section of the canal astern, the idea of coming about directly before all that is presently filling the forward facing glass of the wheelhouse seems an invitation to a far greater nightmare.
To become the smallest target possible, I spin the wheel over hard to starboard and ring up stop. Surprisingly the shore has an abrupt slope and the silt bottom is not only forgiving, but slowly grabs the hull, pulling it to a halt with only a minor lurch. Pointed 90 degrees to the shore with the bow high and dry, the tugs captain blows me a salute for my efforts and passes close astern. I am well into reverse even before his wash reaches my transom, and just now come to realize that the tide is on the ebb and that I could be here for a long time. While my location in the wheelhouse prevents a ringside seat to what is occurring aft, I can easily guess what is taking place below the surface with a 36” five bladed prop in full reverse. Initially nothing is felt, and then with the benefit of several waves lifting from the passing tug, she kegs off.
The run between Apalachicola and Tarpon Springs, Florida is the longest stretch of open water on the circuit of the Great Loop. Everyone who has made this journey seems to have a tale to tell of it. Shorter segments of this area are possible around the upper pan- handle of Florida, however they are pretty much limited to drafts of less than 4 feet. The charts and cruising guides will tell you different, however, I’ve spoken with many a cruiser who believed them, and paid the price in dollars for the haul out and prop job that followed. Cedar Key is a likely choice for reducing this distance; however the distance one must travel northeast from the sea buoy is somewhat counterproductive, unless you really have the desire to go there.
Two schools of thought exist regarding the time of day to depart from Apalachicola Bay. The first recommends a departure in the evening, in order to arrive in the Clearwater area during daylight. The second; suggests departing early morning, with a night arrival, for the purpose of reducing night travel and the strain of an out of cycle body clock.
Arriving at Apalachicola the evening of Nov.23rd, my initial plans are to spend several days there before proceeding to Tarpon Springs. After listening to a favorable weather forecast for the next 48 hours of: Sunny, wind east 10-15 knots, seas 1-3 feet, the decision to proceed early the next morning is made upon what is perceived as that, “Weather Window,” everyone seeks. Although transit thru, Government Cut appears the shortest and obvious departure thru the barrier islands, local advise suggests East Pass to the ENE, do to constant shoaling near the entrance of the channel. Whether this advice is well intended or a result of kick backs from the local boatyard and prop shop, is a gamble in itself. After further scrutiny of the chart however, the East Pass, south of Carrabelle appears to offer less risk and worth the additional mileage.
Being alone, I opt for the early morning departure. The approximate 21hour transit is taxing enough to do single handed, let alone the punis hment of trying to stay awake. (Conculsion Later)
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